Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and travelers alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a select roster of global cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it becomes part of a global network of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "is a testament to its deep-rooted culinary traditions and dynamic gastronomic culture," as noted by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this historic city is hardly a shock to its locals or avid food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the spotlight for what has always shaped its soul: an immense devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing discussion from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, perfected, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – lesser-known delights that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is precise and demanding. The vendor beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though note that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will inspire more people globally to learn these tales and visit the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
